On this side of the Earth we can only guess how climbing is organized on the opposite
side. It is clear that there is more to climbing then just going into the mountains and
withdrawing dividends afterwards. Actually, in the West they can't understand the
intrinsic mechanism of Russian climbing. They just don't care about that. But we have to
absorb their experience and understand mechanisms of their climbing. There isn't much
information about their techniques, so we have to guess. |
Feeling at home in the mountains
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Volkov: "Russian mountain climbers still live in their closed circle. A Western
professional can't do the same. He has to be socially active. To realize his projects, he
has to have connections not only with mountain climbers, but also with people and
companies who can make the projects work. Actually, these people make up the team with
whom he goes into the mountains. These are the companies that produce special equipment
for mountaineering, mass-media, funds, universities, different governmental institutions.
He has to keep warm trusting relationships with all those people and organizations. That
how it is with Carlos. We were just amazed by his skills of communication and making
acquaintances (for example, with Pakistani officials). |
It is clear that high-altitude climbing is a closed club in many respects, but everything
that can and have to be demonstrated is shown to the Western audience. There really are
things to be shown: the beauty of the mountains, people's will and strength, life filled
with impressions and emotions. It is the demonstration of a certain life-style and demands
that one can have for himself. There is an active social position of Western climbing, and
Russian mountain climbing doesn't have that at all. We learned a lot out of our interplay
with Carlos.
The fact that he started cooperating with Russians shows his active social orientation
more that anything else. He didn't just come to negotiations (as Gore and Chernomyrdin
did). You have to eat and sleep being around those people. You have to cooperate with them
in extreme situations where your life depends upon others. People often ask us, 'How is it
going together with the American?' And we reply, 'Alright!' |
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