It is normal for mountain-climbers go uphill every year. There is no big choice for those
who orient themselves to technically complicated high-altitude routes. There are only 14
eight-thousanders in the world. Each trip is extremely cost consuming, so selection of the
next peak and route shall be backed up by some reasons. Dusharin and Volkov elucidate
their choice in the following way:
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Dusharin: "Long ago while entering the world of mountaineering and ecstatically
reading all translations available, Nanga-Parbat (at that time it was called a 'German
mountain') aroused a specific interest. Entire expeditions perished over there. It gained
certain notoriety and was deemed very hard to access technically complicated 8,000 meters
peak. I was deeply impressed by the Messner's solo ascent. It also stands out of all the
big mountains for a different ascent dependence of the monsoon period. The effect of the
monsoon period is weakened for the peak is too remote from the ocean and from that
standpoint the opportunities for the ascent become a bit greater and the time becomes
longer.
Not a single Russian had been on it and it turned out that we went onto the mountain to
pave the way to others. We did not have chances to get onto the peak before since it was
not possible to obtain the permission due to the relationships with Pakistan. When after
ascent onto K2 Carlos suggested that we participate in the "Pakistan project"
and offered a few peaks to choose from we had no doubt: let it be Nanga Parbat.
Volkov: "Within the last years this route became the major one - the Kinshofer route. All of a sudden it turned
out to be the easiest. But the first summit occurred along the Rupal Face and along the
ridge. People had been searching for the way to Nanga Parbat summit since thirties but
surprisingly it appeared that the unapproachable Diamir Face was the most practical way.
And nobody had even glanced at it for it looked frightening. Currently the practical way
is over there. This route is undoubtedly logical for a climber since you are able to turn
neither to the right nor to the left. The route is logical in the exact meaning of this
word. But the fact is that it is not as picturesque as, say, Khan-Tengri, Sviridenko Ridge
or K2 North Ridge. But those are the most beautiful ridges that are available on 8,000
meter peaks. These are model routes from standpoint of beauty and logic.
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