On the way to the 2nd camp
DUSHARIN:
In the morning of July 19th the mountain slope was "overcrowded". Two groups from Togliatti and Carlos with two Italians started their ascent. The climb was relatively easy, and it took only 5 hours to get from the ABC to the 1st camp. Getting to the mountain foot took only 2 hours. We rested for an hour and went further.
VOLKOV:
I had never had such a difficult walk. Snow was melting under the shining sun. We spent 40 minutes to cover the last 30m. We got to the place where we decided to set a 2nd camp. I got a heart attack and Ivan had troubles with his stomach. The high altitude climbing clearly shows your weak points. It took us 4 hours to set a tent, and then we crawled into it, took medicine and ate some jelly. We felt a little bit better. The night was not an easy one. We didn't manage to get a wink of a sleep.

In the morning we spent 4 hours preparing the area to set a tent more thoroughly. At the same time Ivan was trying to dig a cave. In a while we finally decided to go down. We quickly abseiled in 3 hours. Taking into consideration our sad experience, the other guys decided to go up to the 2nd camp only after bivouacking in the 1st camp. We met Udin's group at the bottom of the mountain. The guys from Novosibirsk decided to move to the first camp somewhere around evening. They reached the second camp on the 21st of July, and started digging the cave and clearing away the area, working like bulldozers. They had to build up a new cave, because they couldn't found the one built by Ivan Dusharin. They had done a good job having prepared a place for an overnight staying for three people, confirming their reputation of thorough settlers.
Andrei Volkov ascends from the 1st camp
Sergei Penzov near the second camp tents
DUSHARIN:
In the evening of the 20th of July we had a small celebration with 18 grams of alcohol down there while the guys from Novosibirsk were going up. It was the 30th anniversary of our general sponsor, AvtoVAZ. We had a good reason for celebration, because 4 members of our team had been working at that plant. Sergei Penzov remembered that a new tanker had been launched in Severodvinsk that day. He said that in the year when Russian Navy celebrates its 300 years' birthday the quotas of alcohol could be increased... But in order to save alcohol and to stay fit we refused. In the morning the group of Penzov started forward. They came up on the 22nd of July and started expanding the cave to fit 5 people in there.

Volkov's
diary
Dusharin's
diary
Cave
(1.6 MB)

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