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 DUSHARIN:
On the 10th of July we had chosen an area to set the base camp. We left
the tent there and went down. In the temporary camp we met 4 guys from
Novosibirsk. They told us that the others had managed to move not farther
than the Pakistani camp. It seemed that the guys started getting tired
and needed some rest. The day to have a rest was the 11th of July. We had
a doctor's physical, took a bath and fixed the equipment. Andrei and I
made up the schedule of our work up to the 31st of July.
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Of course, we had great plans, and we didn't take into consideration either the weather conditions, or the international expedition. We had planned to set 4 upper camps, to reach 8,000 meters and to acclimatize. We had already got an informal rating of 4's: 1) the group of Dusharin; 2) the group of Udin (from Novosibirsk); 3) the group of Penzov, and 4) the group of Dosaev. The way we should work was the following. All 4 groups had the same route with a time interval of one day. Being the first group, we had to explore the route and to set the camp, fixing ropes if necessary. The following groups had to carry the luggage to the camp and to make the camp comfortable. We had to wait and see how the idea would work out. |
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| On the 12th of July we launched a move to the temporary camp. We carried about 25-30kg each. Our knees and feet reminded us about that move later. In the evening we drank 18gm of alcohol each. We remembered our friends, Kostya Egorov and Vera Sindyanova, who tragically died that day back in 1991 under an ice-fall in the Karakol Valley in the area of the Festival summit. |
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