DUSHARIN:
We'd completed the first river-crossing that day. It was not even the
real crossing, but the knee-deep fording. The water was icy-cold and the
current was strong, so we could feel the mighty power of the river. It
was a long time trekking. We had gone 500m high and reached the pass. Finally
the snow peaks appeared and we felt like closing to the aim of our boring
trekking. The area is miserable and rough there. The climate was relentless.
For two days we were just dying of heat. That same day we saw the snow
falling. The changes were surprisingly quick.
In the evening, trying to buy a ram, we really had to bargain with
locals. We unwound and demonstrated the rope, tried to treat them with
vodka (with no success though). It seemed that we had come to a mutual
understanding when one of the cameleers interfered. It turned out we're
right in guessing which one was the Chinese official. He was dressed nicer
than others, spoke a little English and succeeded in reproducing Russian
words. He was always trying to undermine the relationships between us,
the caravan people and the locals. For whatever reason they become flustered
and don't communicate with us in his presence.
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Ivan Dusharin is crossing the river
It suddenly snowed
Taking off shoes before the next river crossing
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