DUSHARIN:
K2 (8,611 m), in the northern part of Karakoram, is the cherished dream of every climber. In 1991, when the expedition to Mt. Everest became a reality for our club, we started talking about K2, the second highest peak in the world. Those were the talks about our future plans. Unfortunately, nothing came out of these discussions. After a successful Everest climb (8 mountaineers of our team reached the summit), we started discussing financial expenses, a tactical scheme for such an expedition, and started analyzing opportunities of the club. Still, it's a "foreign mountain" and its "owner" is China. We didn't know anything about China's demands for the expeditions and we could only assume how the Chinese would treat foreigners. As a result, we were not sure that our initial plans would be realized.
In the beginning of 1996, our friends from Novosibirsk informed us about the permit for expedition to K2. The expedition will be held on the North Ridge (the Chinese side). They were willing to invite 4 climbers from the Everest team. The process began, but then came to a sudden stop. In Novosibirsk there wasn't enough money to support the expedition. As the result, the Novosibirsk team started looking for financial support in Togliatti.
K2 view from the Base Camp
Everest
VOLKOV:
Other then all those difficulties, there was another problem from the very beginning: a shortage of time. There is a set amount of time for expeditions to such mountains. And, in the permit there was a specifically stated period. If you don't manage your time properly, this will cause you major problems. You'll have to start again next year. Expeditions of such kind have to be prepared thoroughly, and it takes at least an entire year. We had only 4 months left and didn't want to lose the opportunity granted us.

K2 history

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