Sporting Statuses in Russia

Mountain climbing in the former USSR and present day Russia is an official sport. This means that in climbing, just like in any other kind of sport, the championships of Russia are orginized and the official classifiers of status norms exist.

Official sporting statuses in mountatin climbing in Russia are awarded for a certain number of ascents in a certain category depending upon complexity. The following grades exist:

  • Alpinist Badge - junior status;
  • 3rd class;
  • 2nd class;
  • 1st class;
  • kms (candidate to master of sports) - is given to a 1st class climber who also summited no less than 3 peaks of a 5b category and at least one peak of a 6a category (Russian classification system). For example, technically, K2 North Ridge route is ranked as a 5b. But because of high altitude of difficult route sectors it has a 6a category;
  • ms (master of sports) - is given for participation and getting points in the All-Russia Championships. Often being a Champion of Russia is not enough to obtain a master of sports. The summit can not be considered in the championship if any death or severe injury occured during the climb;
  • msmk (master of sports, international class) - is given individually for outstanding achievements in sports. For example, some of the K2 team members got their msmk status for climbing Everest in 1992. They were the first Russians (not Soviets) which summited the highest point of the planet;
  • distinguished master of sports of Russia - is given individually for outstanding contribution to Russian sport. This status is more political than sport oriented. It is usually given to former outstanding sportsmen.
Unofficial status:
  • "snow leopard" - a title, which is given to a person who successfully climbed the 5 highest peaks in the former USSR. Four of them are higher than 7,000m and the fifth, Khan-Tengri, is 6995m high.

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